How to lubricate throttle cable

Beside above how do you lubricate an outboard throttle cable. Throttle now turns very easily.

Slide and rotate the cable in the jacket then give the bag a second shot of oil it can be the same oil to assure a thorough lubrication.

How to lubricate throttle cable. It will ensure a smooth throttle action and prevent the chance of the throttle getting stuck wide open. In order to clean first spray off the dirt using compressed air and a light degreaser or brake cleaner. Then use a lubricant designed for throttle cables.

My two favorites are dri-slide and sprayable gel lube. Basically you clamp a rubber stopper over one end of the cable insert a tube from a can of silicone-based cable lubricant into a little hole and give the nozzle a squeeze. The cans pressure forces the lubricant through the cable.

Apply the lubricant in short bursts until the bottom end of the cable begins to bubble or drip. Thankfully not much you dont have already. Prepare the Work Area.

Remove the Clutch Lever. Slip on the Cable Luber. Lube the Clutch Lever Cable.

Reinstall the Clutch Lever. Disassemble the Throttle Cable Housing. Lube the Throttle Cables.

Beside above how do you lubricate an outboard throttle cable. Pour enough motor oil into the bag to fully submerge the end of the cable jacket and zip the bag closed. Place a container beneath the bottom end of the cable to catch the oil that should eventually drip out of the lower end of the jacket.

Allow the cable to hang until the oil drains. Spray lubricant into the 2 throttle tubes shown with arrows in step 8 where the throttle cable enters the tubes. Turn the throttle grip by hand back and forth to help work the lube along the cable.

Clean up any excess mess and reassemble in the reverse order of which was disassembled. Lubricate with Rust Inhibitor. Clutch Cable Throttle Cables Lubricate the cables by seeping the oil between the cable and housing.

The cable may be lubricated by using a commercially available pressure cable lubricator with an aerosol cable lubricant or chain lube. With the cable disconnected at both ends the inner cable should move freely within the cable. Throttle now turns very easily.

To lube the cable make a small cone out of aluminum foil. Put the cone over the end of the cable and use an elastic to make a seal. Place the cable upright and pour a small amount of oil into your cone.

Place a container beneath the bottom end of the cable to catch the oil that should eventually drip out of the lower end of the jacket. Allow the cable to hang until the oil drains through. Slide and rotate the cable in the jacket then give the bag a second shot of oil it can be the same oil to assure a thorough lubrication.

Ive heard of people tying a baggie of WD40 or similar around the cable end and hanging it allowing the lube to dribble through the cable jacket thereby saving the cable. I usually find that the plastic jacket cracks before the actual cable goes bad in which case this aint gonna help much. Personally I just buy new ones.

You need to pull back the conical dust shield on the end of the throttle cable. What makes the cbale lubricationm difficult in the ML is that the orientation of the Cable Lube Tool is such that the lubricant feed tube faces the firewall. Therefore insert the red feed tube into the small hole on the side of the Cable Lube Tool.

The throttle tube end and make sure to put a bunch of paper towel at the throttle body end to catch any over spray. Since you do want to flush out any crud that has gotten into the cables. On the dirt bikes using a Cable Lubers and WD-40 works great and I.

Remove the uppertop cable end. Wrap a rag around the lower cable end. Poke a small hole in the corner of a Zip-Loc resealable bag.

Thread the cable into the bag so that the sheath is about 14-12 inside the bag. Tape around the cable where it enters the bag to seal it. Add a tablespoon or so of oil.

Some like motor oil I prefer gear oil as. When applying the gas pedal the ball on the throttle cable at the top of the gas pedal will continue sticking out about 2 inches for 5 seconds the engine will race up to 4000 rpms then back to 1000 rpms. So using deductive reasoning I replaced the throttle cable with a brand new one to fix the problem.

The cable ends under the tank are not that hard to access. As daunting as it may sound you can lift the tank to get to them easier. You just take off the two side panels and remove the seat by two allen bolts on either side and then the back of the tank has a bolt under the front of the seat.

Loose the two bolts under those plastic black straps by the forks at the.