In the Gregorys workshop manual they say to use a slide hammer to remove the main bearing capsThey attach it to the caps with expanding masonry boltsdynaboltsin the bolt holesDo not try to use a normal hammer to loosen them or hit them with anythingThese caps take huge loads and stresses and have very fine tolerences. Place bearing on flat surface.
Push one cap out until the u-joint cross bottoms on the yoke pushing the cap out as far as it will go.
How to remove bearing caps. In this video bearing caps along with some bearings are shown how to be removed. Buy main bearings hereAmazon Affiliate LinkBuy My Book - How to Warp Jump. A quick commonly known trick on removing main bearing caps without using a large hammer or prying implement.
For other car restoration goodness please visi. In the Gregorys workshop manual they say to use a slide hammer to remove the main bearing capsThey attach it to the caps with expanding masonry boltsdynaboltsin the bolt holesDo not try to use a normal hammer to loosen them or hit them with anythingThese caps take huge loads and stresses and have very fine tolerences. Grease caps just pop out and in.
The best way to get them out is to pry them with a flat head screw driver or tap them from side to side with a hammer. To install new ones you simply gently hammer them in. Normally I use a short piece of 2x4 to help tap the grease cap or bearing.
I cant remove the connecting rod bearing cap to remove the rod bearings. The bolts are off but the caps wont budge. This design provides clearance from the burrs ensuring easy removal in either direction.
A New Removal Process. Pull the bearing off the shaft Note. In cases of excessive fretting corrosion a hammer and drift or bearing puller may be needed to assist the removal.
The reason Im doing this is because I noticed movement when I grip the wheel and move it side to side. I suspect the hub bearings and would like to remove the caps to have closer look and possible replace the bearings. Here are some pictures of the wheel and hub.
REMOVING SHEILDS FIXED Using an awl or dental tool gently pierce a small hole into the shield as far toward the outer diameter as possible. Place bearing on flat surface. Insert tool into puncture hole.
Slowly pry shield from bearing. To replace the end cap place the top hat part against the bearing and then the hat band part over it and make sure it is sitting evenly. I then used a 23mm socket to tap the hat band flush with the hub edge.
Note the hat band part goes on the right way up inspect when you take it off to identify which way it goes back on. Keeping dust caps on bearing buddies. I personally dont care for the dust caps as I have found they tend to leak a bit and then trap water inside.
They do keep things clean and neat and prevent grease from flinging on your wheels. As someone who has ugly wheels and is more concerned about rusty bearings and Bearing Buddies I threw mine out. Tap a flat-head screwdriver under the lip of the bearing caps using a hammer.
The bearings and caps are in the exact center of your wheels. Place the edge of the screwdrivers flat head against the crack where the bearings dust cap meets the bearing itself. Hit the back of the screwdriver with a hammer until it wedges between the bearing cap and the bearing.
Bearing Buddies like BB2441 fit very tight into a trailer hub. In order to get them out you will need to use a rubber mallet and persuade them out. Once the Bearing Buddy starts to unseat from the hub you can grab it and wiggle it out.
Remove grease cap 1. Remove cotter pin 2 and discard. Remove spindle nut 3 and washer 4.
Remove hubdrum 5 with bearings and grease seal installed. Remove grease seal 10 from hubdrum 5. Remove inner bearing 9 and inner race 8 from hubdrum 5.
Discard bearing 9 and race 8. There is a lip on the cap that may not be too obvious to you right now but look a little harder and youll see it. You can put a flat head screwdriver behind this lip and use a hammer to stab a screwdriver through the cap.
If you plan on keeping the cap just be a lot more careful by simply prying on that lip around the perimeter. The main bearings will be somewhat more difficult. It is possible to very slightly loosen all the main caps and the crank will drop far enough you only need a few thousanths of an inch to ease the removal of the main bearing shells.
Again only remove one cap at a time and make sure to reinstall it in the correct orientation. Simply slide it over the dust cap and then use the leverage created by the handle to gently pry on the cap in different directions until it begins to wiggle. Once it starts to loosen the tapered cap.
Start by removing the main bearing caps from the cylinder block. Underneath the rear cap you will find both the rear main oil seal and the crankshaft thrust bearing. The crank can now be hoisted from the engine block and the upper main bearings removed from their saddles.
He came up with the following. Push one cap out until the u-joint cross bottoms on the yoke pushing the cap out as far as it will go. Now press the cross back the other way pushing against the cross not the cap and exposing the bearing surface on the cross below the pushed out cap.
Now wrap wire around the exposed bearing surface of the cross.