How to tighten wheel bearings on a trailer

Check the bore for roundness using a snap bore gauge. Tighten the spindle nut finger tight until snug and then with channel-lock pliers or a crescent wrench tighten the spindle nut another 14 turn or about 15 to 20 ft pounds of torque.

Tighten the spindle nut finger tight until snug and then with channel-lock pliers or a crescent wrench tighten the spindle nut another 14 turn or about 15 to 20 ft pounds of torque.

How to tighten wheel bearings on a trailer. In this video I will show you how to adjust the bearings on your trailer the EASY way. Follow me on Instagram. After youve packed the bearings and assembled everything carefully slide the hub assembly onto the spindle and install the outer bearing.

Install the spindle and tang washer and run the spindle nut down finger tight then rotate the hub back and forth then rock the hub side to side to make sure everything is seated properly. Tighten the bearing for the first time. Thread the wheel bearing nut on until it is hand tight.

Take your wrench and place it over the wheel bearing nut. Tighten the nut until it is firm and cannot be tightened anymore. Today we list a quick do it your self guide on how you can replace and adjust wheel bearings to ensure optimal performance and reliability in your boat trailer.

Place a jack under your trailer. Jack the trailer up so the wheels are not touching the ground. Remove the wheel dust cap split pin axle nut washer hub.

Push the wheel assembly in and out while oscillating it to seat the bearings. Read the bearing end play as the total indicator movement. If end play is.

To pre-load the bearings install the spindle washer and spindle nut onto the spindle with the hub and bearings in place. Tighten the spindle nut finger tight until snug and then with channel-lock pliers or a crescent wrench tighten the spindle nut another 14 turn or about 15 to 20 ft pounds of torque. To pre-load the bearings install the spindle washer and spindle nut onto the spindle with the hub and bearings in place.

Tighten the spindle nut finger tight until snug and then with channel-lock pliers or a crescent wrench tighten the spindle nut another 14 turn or about 15 to 20 ft pounds of torque. Now turn the hub ten revolutions. Take 1 wheel off the trailer to access the hub assembly.

Loosen the nuts on all wheels with a lug wrench while the trailer is on the ground. Jack the trailer up just enough to lift the wheels off the ground. Finish unscrewing the nuts on 1 wheel with the lug wrench remove them and slide the wheel off the hub.

Once the bearing is removed inspect the bore of the knuckle for damage. The bore should be free from corrosion. Check the bore for roundness using a snap bore gauge.

The gauge should rotate in the bore easily. Any distortion in the bore can cause a new bearing to fail prematurely. Dont Forget to Clean the Wheel Speed Sensor and Tone Ring.

Screw the trailer wheel lug nuts onto the wheel studs and hand-tighten with the trailer tire iron. Remove the jack-stands from under the trailer axle and frame and slowly release the jack to lower. And its always recommended to replace the rear grease seals behind each bearing.

To properly set the assembly snug up the castle nut. Though one may exist Ive never seen a published torque spec for tightening the castle nut to the spindle but if you spin the tires in the opposite direction as you tighten the castle nut snug you should be fine. I bought this used and noticed that all 4 wheels had play in them so when I repacked the bearings I tightened the nut enough to eliminate the play but still allow the wheel to turn freely.

Using a laser thermometer I took it out for about a 20 minute drive loaded with a car in the trailer. After placing the hub bearings washers and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 Ft. 1 wrench or pliers with full hand force.

Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. If the bearings are the taper roller type you should tighten the nut about 30 degrees passed the point when the bearing is seated turning the wheel as you tighten to ensure the bearing is seated. Then undo the nut until you can just feel a tiny amount of play.

No pressure on the bearing. Ive seen to types of wheel bearings most with cotter pins and castle nut and few weeks ago i put electric brakes on an old beast of a trailer that had just a nut not a castle nut. Generally with any castle nuts you tighten it hand tight and back it off to the nearest hole that the pin will fit into however make sure the hub is tight on the axle and that theres not a half inch of.

18 top to bottom movement is fine. Tighten the nut to 50 lbft while rotating the hub to ensure the bearings are seating properly then loosen the nut off and tighten it hand tight. If the cotter pin wont line up back off to the next hole dont go tighter.

Kubiak Oct 4 2012. Torque the adjusting nut to 200 lbf-ft while oscillating the wheel. This will fully seat the bearing components.

Back off the adjusting nut one full turn or until it is loose. Torque the adjusting nut to 50 lbf-ft while rotating the wheel hub assembly to establish end play. Back off the inner adjusting nut the amount indicated in the chart below.

Secure the load to the trailer with tie downs. Check tire pressure while the tires are cold. Check and adjust wheel bearings if necessary after the first 50 miles of use.

Inspect and repack wheel bearings as needed. Check that the bed locking.